The term waterman gets thrown about far too frequently
within the surfing world, but the next guy in our Sit Down With series can
truly lay claim to that title.
Shane Dorian from Kailua, Hawaii is one of the
most recognised and respected names in the world of surfing.
After spending 11 years chasing the World Tour he decided to
call it quits and go hunting for the biggest waves in the world, and at 44
years of age shows no sign of slowing down anytime soon!
He is regularly the standout surfer in the much documented
Jaws paddle sessions, pulling in to maxing Teahuppo during Code Red swells and
multiple big wave sessions at Mavericks.
Here we sit down with the waterman and find out how it all
started, his favourite waves, surf
holidays and much more!
1. How did you first
get into surfing?
Growing up in Hawaii my parents had a restaurant near the
beach. As soon as I could swim I learned to surf. The beach was my playground
growing up so it was a natural evolution for me.
2. Where in the world
is your favourite wave?
Probably Cloudbreak on Tavarua Island in Fiji.
3. What is your
favourite surf area in the world?
Probably Indonesia. There is so much
variety and the amount of world class waves is crazy.
4. Where in the world
would you like to go to that you haven’t been?
Oh wow, probably Eastern
Europe. I would also love to go to places in Italy I haven’t been.
5. What board do you
generally ride?
I usually ride a short board, around 5’7″ shaped by JC.
That’s my go-to everyday board.
6. What do you do in
your free time when you’re not surfing?
Chasing my kids around, that keeps
me pretty busy.
7. Beaches, Slabs or
Reefs?
Reefs, but I enjoy all different types of waves. Sand bottom point
breaks would be a favourite.
9. Rights or Lefts?
Rights.
10. Who is your
favourite pro surfer?
I love watching John John Florence, he can do it all
and with a ton of style and grace.
11. What is the
funniest thing that has ever happened to you while surfing?
I’ve had my
trunks get blown off during a wipe-out at Teahupoo, which was pretty funny.
12. What is your
favourite surf movie?
Right now it would be A View From A Blue Moon, I
watch it with my son all the time. That’s all he watches.
13. What is your
favourite song/album to take on a surf trip?
Bob Marley
Shane is involved in an Omaze campaign which
offers surfers the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to spend a week surfing in
the Maldives with himself and Jamie O’Brien.
For as little as $10, surf fans around the world have the opportunity
to spend 7 days with Shane and Jamie, all in support of a cause close to their
hearts – an organization called More
Than Sport, which provides kids in Hawaii with athletic and educational
opportunities.
Fans can visit omaze.com/surf
through July 24 to get involved. Each donation helps to raise money for More
Than Sport.
Other articles you may also want to read:
Legendary
Surf Spot: El Quemao
Photo by: Fred
Pompermayer
Photo by: Greentree
Photo by: Laurent Pujol